Новости Скалолазания

Injury prevention - by Schöffl

Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, have written an article about injury prevention. They are both active climbers and medical doctors. Both have done first ascents up to french 8b, many of them in Laos and Thailand.They are team physicians to the German Climbing team and Volker is a member of the MedCom IFSC and author of „One move too many“. They have done 100+ scientific papers on climbing medicine and are teaching world wide on this topic. They are right now working for an aid organization as doctors in Laos where they also were among the pioneers for Thakhek. Further information: sportmedicine.rocks Specifically they have mentioned some risks for kids and young teenagers - Neglect campus board - No additional weight - Reduce finger intensive bouldering - Avoidance of constant crimping Full article about injury prevention.
8a.nu - пн, 30/04/2018 - 03:00

8c+/9a FA by Laura Rogora (16)

Laura Rogora, #6 in a World Cup last year, has done the FA of Sitting Bull 8c+/9a in Collepardo. "It is a very long and pumpy route that connects "bruce lee" with "crazy horse" and I think it could be 8c+/9a. Moreover, to finish the day in the best way I sent "Calligaman" 8b+ second go. The 16 year old has previously done two 9a's out of which the first when she was just 14 years old. Last year she was #6 in the European Champion as well as in a World Cup. "I m leaving today for Spain with a focus on onisght and fast redpoints. I will spend six days in Margalef and I think that these days will be the last on rock because this year the season is very long and full of competitions. I will compete in the youth competitions and in the world cup circuit. In October in Buenos Aires for the youth Olympic games. Then I hope to have time to spend again on some hard routes."
8a.nu - чт, 26/04/2018 - 03:00

Dramatic change of Overall World Cup rules

The Overall World Cup in 2017 was based on the point scoring in all three disciplines. In both male and female, a Speed specialist was #4 overall even if they had just done speed events. In the new released Overall WC rules for 2018, IFSC have changed everything. 1. You need to participate in at least two events in all three disciplines. 2. Only the Top-2 * 3 results will count. 3. The results will be based on your relative ranking to the others. 4. The relative ranking is based only on the Combined athletes participating. 5. The ranking for the 6 events will be multiplied. The reason for these dramatic change is that the qualification for the Olympics 2020 starts 2019, where the Top-20 in the Combined will compete in a special qualifying event. The consequences for the new rules are; A. It will be very hard to present any reliable Overall ranking until the very last competition as we might not know the ranking of the first competition until the last competition is finished. It just might be that some will just participate in the last two speed events in 2019 as they failed to qualify during the Combined WCH or they want to help a team mate. B. The Speed specialist will most likely not have a chance so they will not participate in Combined if they can not perform on a high level also in at least Bouldering. This means that it will be relatively easy to get good Combined ranking results in Speed, which will increase it's importance. C. A climber like Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret might just need 2 * 3 competitions to secure the overall victory, meanwhile the lower ranked guys aiming to just become Top-20, could end up doing 15 - 20 World Cups, excluding the WCH and the Special event in 2019. D. The dilemma for the Speed events is that almost all focus will be on just the qualifications as the Combined athletes will not make it to the finals.
8a.nu - чт, 26/04/2018 - 03:00

NEWS: Eliot Stephens climbs New Base Line 8B+

Eliot Stephens has returned from a fantastic two week trip to Magic Wood where he climbed New Base Line, a Bernd Zangerl 8B+ and a whole host of other problems.
UKclimbing.com - ср, 25/04/2018 - 13:04
8a.nu - ср, 25/04/2018 - 03:00
8a.nu - ср, 25/04/2018 - 03:00

How competition climbing evolved

1985 1st official competition, Bardonecchia: Stefan Glowacz wins 1986 Arco: Patrick Edlinger and Catherine Destivelle in front of 10 000 spectators and seven TV channels 1987 1st Arco Rock Master: Lynn Hill & Glowacz 1988 World series: Jerry Mofatt 1989 1st World Cup, Leeds: Moffat and Erbesfield 1991 1st World Champion, Frankfurt: Francois Legrand & Susi Good 1992 1st Youth Championships, Basel: Sarkany, Bibik, Petit etc 1999 1st Bouldering WC: Christian Core and Stéphanie Bodet
8a.nu - ср, 25/04/2018 - 03:00

8c+ and 8c's by Moritz Welt (16)

Moritz Welt has during the last three weeks done three 8c's and Markus Bock's Demonized 8c+ in Frankenjura. "Chipped, Short and painful but good moves." In the 8a Combined junior ranking, having also done seven 8B's and harder during the last two months, he is #2. Franz Kaiser
8a.nu - ср, 25/04/2018 - 03:00

NEWS: IFSC Boulder World Cup: Moscow - Report

The second round of the 2018 IFSC Boulder World Cup series took place in Moscow, Russia this weekend alongside the first round of the Speed World Cup. A mix of old school setting and dynamic moves resulted in an exciting final, even if the problems for the women were perhaps slightly too easy.
UKclimbing.com - вт, 24/04/2018 - 14:09

График работы, выезды и соревнования в мае

Отдыхаем: 30 апреля, 1-2 мая, далее 9 мая. Все остальные дни - по обычному расписанию.

Клуб Эль Капитан - вт, 24/04/2018 - 13:30

Ryan Air flies to Kos again

Ryan Air will start flying again from Berlin and Dusseldorf 3 + 3 times a week starting in June until late October. Some years ago, they had some 30 weekly flights from seven airports in Europe but the last years, everything was cancelled.
8a.nu - вт, 24/04/2018 - 03:00

Two 8a+' by Cathy Wagner (52)

Cathy Wagner has done two 8a+', in Aixorta, Los Angeles de Daddy and Bien atrapado. "A perfect link-up starting on the first 5 bolts of Buenas migas then leftwards into Atrapados. This combo skips the chipped start and the no-hand rest straight after. Good knee-bar skills make a difference in the upper part." During the last month, the 52 year old has also done seven 8a's and in total she has done 645 routes 8a and harder. Is there any female who has done more? Interestingly, it seems Cathy continues to progress and her last year is actually her best ever. If she would have participated in the 8a age bonus ranking game, Cathy would have been #2 in the world after Adam Ondra.
8a.nu - вт, 24/04/2018 - 03:00

Three 8c+' by Dalton Bunker

Dalton Bunker has done three 8c+ the last week including the FA of Fire Pit Project again 8C in American Fork. "Finally put the "fire pit project" to rest! Classic american fork power. I finished through the wizards crux and stopped at the burning/melting chains(bats out of hell was too wet) i also replaced the original start with cannibals direct,it may be harder or the same im not sure but this routes gotta be the hardest climb i've ever done considering the number of days i put into it. Could be 14d its hard to say as i've never climbed one. Big thanks to Jess for getting me psyched to try the route." (c) John Evans On his Facebook he has published several videos in regards his interesting thoughts on taking Cold Showers, Eating and Stretching etc.
8a.nu - вт, 24/04/2018 - 03:00

NEWS: New Malham 8c by Steve McClure

Steve McClure has proved that Malham Cove is not yet 'climbed-out' by establishing a new 8c on the Upper Tier named The Reign is Over. The name alludes to the recent spell of good weather which enabled the first ascent, as well as to the all-consuming routes which Steve has dedicated a significant chunk of time to.
UKclimbing.com - пн, 23/04/2018 - 17:55

Последний этап краевого Первенства: трудность

Состоится: 11 мая 2018

11-12 мая на скалодроме клуба "Стремление" пройдет Первенство Краснодарского края в дисциплине "трудность".

Клуб Эль Капитан - пн, 23/04/2018 - 13:11

NEWS: Mark Vallance dies aged 72

Climber and entrepreneur Mark Vallance has died aged 72 following a long battle with Parkinson's disease, according to a report from the Climber's Club. Mark was a highly influential figure in the climbing industry who will be remembered for his many contributions to the sport's development, perhaps most notably for bringing Friends - also known as cams - to market.
UKclimbing.com - пн, 23/04/2018 - 13:05

The Japanese boulder domination increases

From the World Cup rankings we can see the total Japanese male domination, six in Top-13 and 8 in Top-17. Among the female, two in the Top-3. Runner-up, is the very small country Slovenia with just 2 million inhabitants, with two in Top-7 among both male and female. Based on that the next two World Cups are in China followed by one in Tokyo, most likely, we will see an even stronger Japanese domination in the ranking lists coming up. Last year, Japan participated with 41 athletes in Tokyo but this year they will be allowed to compete with 47.
8a.nu - пн, 23/04/2018 - 03:00

8B in some 45 min by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio has done her 25th 8B, Green in the face in Cadtle Rock and amazingly it went down in just some 45 minutes. "3rd try from the start and 5th try in total. Fell going to the last hold before the send go.... really sharp rock, but fun climbing for sure!!! Lots of small holds, my style I guess. :)" Alex at 153 cm and 56 kg's says she is some four kg's heavier than the last year. "Honestly haven’t felt like I’m in great shape since the past 4 months. I can definitely feel the weight difference right now when I climb, but I still feel strong and powerful."
8a.nu - пн, 23/04/2018 - 03:00

Slovenia and Japan shared the podiums

Excellent route setting also in the final in Moscow where it was thrilling to the very last try. Janja Garbret had to flash and so she did, winning on count back over Miho Nonaka. Also last starter in the final, Jongwon Chon had the chance to secure the victory but could not reach the top, and ended #4. As you can see below, Slovenia and Japan shared the podiums equally. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 44:7/5 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 44 2. Miho Nonaka JPN 44:7/5 - Jernej Kruder SLO 34:5 3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 34 Gregor Vezonik SLO 34:6 Complete results Noteworthy is also that Vezonik was #51 in Meiringen last week. Eddie Fowke from The Circuit Climbing and the IFSC official photographer, who has captured almost all World Cups the last five years, was very impressed of the whole competition and the final show. "Very good comp. Too many dyno's in finals though. Super well run, the Russian's put on a great show and put a huge effort into everything going right." In Speed, Yoshiyuki Ogata was best of the top ranked boulderers being #43 with 7.90. Among the female, Miho Nonaka was #44 with 10.51.
8a.nu - вс, 22/04/2018 - 03:00

Extraordinary great semifinals in Moscow

Five of the female semifinalist in Meiringen made it to the final also in Moscow and the one missing, Sandra Lettner, did not participate. Among the male, four are the same as in the last event. Japan and Slovenia got three in total to the final and the Japanese domination continues with four male in Top-10 and three female in Top-8. Complete results All boulders were topped out and in fact, based on the top out percentage, it seems they were all of similar difficulty. This is very seldom the case and the route setting also in terms of style and variation were extraordinary great.
8a.nu - вс, 22/04/2018 - 03:00

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