Новости Скалолазания

8a.nu - вт, 01/12/2020 - 03:00

The Game 8C by Matt Fultz

Matt Fultz has done his sixth and hardest 8C, The Game in Boulder Canyon."V15/16 seems fair, especially for my height. So stoked!" (c) James Lucas It was put up ten years ago by Daniel Woods calling it 8C+. However, later he returned and thought it was 8C due to some holds seemed to have gotten bigger, due to brushing, creating a new sequence. Last week, the 183 cm tall flashed his second 8B, Iron Resolution 8B. Interesting is that Matt (28) has had his best year by far the last 12 months and he is #3 in the ranking game. The 28-year-old has had an almost continuous progress the last ten years and if this will continue, he just might be #1 before we turn 2021.
8a.nu - чт, 23/01/2020 - 03:00

VIDEO: Kilian Jornet vs Base Jumper

Base Jumper Tom Erik Heimen and trail runner Kilian Jornet "race" up & down the iconic Romsdalshorn (1550m) in Norway.
UKclimbing.com - ср, 22/01/2020 - 17:00

Déjà 8c+ MP FA by Fabian Buhl

Michi Wyser and Andres Lietha bolted the 400 m pitch in Rätikon 27 years ago. Now Fabian Buhl has made the FA of Déjà with 12 pitches up to 8c+. Having done 9a and an 8C boulder, the German is one of the most accomplished multi-discipline climber in the world.
8a.nu - ср, 22/01/2020 - 03:00

Two 8c+/9a in two sessions by Hamish Mcarthur (17)

Hamish Mcarthur, #2 and #5 in the Youth World Boulder and Lead Championships last year, has done two 8c+/9a's in Siurana in just two sessions each; Jungle Speed and A Muerte. Amazingly, the previous best for the 17-year-old was 8a. More info to come.
8a.nu - ср, 22/01/2020 - 03:00

NEWS: The Montane Spine Race - Full Report

After a stormy week, the Montane Spine Race is finally over. Rob Greenwood, who spent much of the time glued to a screen watching the trackers move steadily north, brings us a summary of the race along the full length of the Pennines.
UKclimbing.com - вт, 21/01/2020 - 12:00

VIDEO: Climb Your Dreams

In this short film, Climb Your Dreams, New York City-based Raheim Robinson daydreams of escaping the city in search of a natural landscape and is drawn out of the daily grind and into the outdoors by his passion for climbing.
UKclimbing.com - вт, 21/01/2020 - 12:00

NEWS: Two x 8c+/9a by Hamish Mcarthur

17-year-old Hamish Mcarthur has ticked two 8c+/9as in Siurana, Spain in just two sessions per route, jumping from a previous personal redpoint best of 8a. Hamish is known for his junior indoor competition podium results, but this was his first serious sport climbing trip.
UKclimbing.com - пн, 20/01/2020 - 12:00

Pachamama 9a+ by Cedric Lachat

Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done Pachamama 9a+ in Oliana. Here is a video from the upper crux. (c) Julia Cassou Cedric has done five 9a+' before and the big plan is to do Mami Chula 9b which is an Adam Ondra link up of Pachamama and Papichulo. "I wanted to try an 9b. After receiving some infos about the routes, I decided to try “Mami chula” because it’s long and less complicated with conditions. Finish “Pachamama” is the first step, Adam and Seb also completed this one before trying the 9b."
8a.nu - пн, 20/01/2020 - 03:00

Ça chauffe 9a FA by Tanguy Merard (16)

Tanguy Merard, who has onsighted 12 8a's, has done his first 9a, Ça chauffe in Seynes. He comments to Fanatic Climbing, "This route required to me a lot of patience and perseverance (something like 10 days), it was a harder process compared to my 2 previous 8c+ sends (“Les grandes bouches du Rhône” and “San Ku Kai”) so I propose 9a." Interesting is that he started training hard less than two years ago and since then he has had extraordinary progress, although also doing easier routes. His pyramid base is solid with 60 routes 8a and harder the last 12 months. (c) Williams Belle
8a.nu - пн, 20/01/2020 - 03:00

Eagle 4 9b by Hugo Parmentier

Fanatic Climbing reports that Hugo Parmentier has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Eagle 4 9b in St-Léger du Ventoux. The 20-year-old, who has eight podiums in IFSC youth comps, has tried it regurarly the last six months. More info to come.
8a.nu - пн, 20/01/2020 - 03:00

Ciudad de Dios 9a by Gonzalo Larrocha

Gonzalo Larrocha has done his 15th 9a, Ciudad de Dios in Santa Linya. The picture shows a new kneebar rest which he found just before the crux. "I spend four seasons on it, I don´t know how many tries I did, perhaps more than one hundred. That´s by far my hardest 9a. There is a sequence of five 5 moves that I only could do some days. That route is a direct start to Fabela wich I did in 2014. In Ciudad de Nios start you should make an 8c+ instead of the 8a start of Fabela.
8a.nu - пн, 20/01/2020 - 03:00

Two more 8B's by Rocklands by Oriane Bertone (14)

Oriane Bertone has done her third and fourth 8B in Rocklands; Agamemnon and Ray of Light. "Proud to top this boulder! 4 sessions to send the crouch start version. 5 more sessions to send the sit start one. I had to add a pad to reach the holds, but I didn't want to start without the first movement which is really hard (I was still super stretched!) Nice end of stay in Rocklands! In the 8a ranking game, the 14-year-old is #3, and in total she has now done eleven 8B's and one 8B+. In the video, she is doing some other 8A's including one flash.
8a.nu - пн, 20/01/2020 - 03:00

Papichulo 9a+ by David Firnenburg

David Firnenburg, #4 in the Combined World Ch. in 2016, has done his third 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana after some 7-8 sessions. "Happy to reward the hard work I've invested with an ascent of this amazing line. Interesting process of projecting including up's and down's, warm weather conditions and bad skin. Kept believing in my abilities and stayed patient. Feeling relieved now. Oliana is prime!" The picture, (c) Andrea Kuemin is from his Insta, three days ago. "Finding my inner balance before the crucial try of my project.
8a.nu - вс, 19/01/2020 - 03:00

FRI NIGHT VID: Dave MacLeod climbing Rainbow Warrior (8b)

This week's Friday Night Video is an extra from the new film from Dark Sky Media: Undiscovered. The film explores Dave's obsession with exploration and climbing new routes in some of Scotland's most remote and scenic corners. This outtake from the film follows Dave down Loch Maree on his boat, all the way to the 'supercrag' where he attempts to redpoint a new sport route on stunning rock.
UKclimbing.com - пт, 17/01/2020 - 20:00