Great route setting and livestreaming from the World Cup in Edinburgh but we badly need the official clock and so do the spectators. In practice all the top female struggled with the new six minute rule and not even the commentators did know who won as Janja Garnbret was timed out but continued some moves. Stefano Gisolfi and Jakob Schubert had topped out the first three routes and with identical result also in the final, the faster climber, Ghisolfi, was ranked higher. At the same time the local commentator, did often talk about how long time did remain for the athletes actually helping some more then the other. IFSC need to set some rules, how much time info the commentator should give the athletes. Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret won their third and fourth event in 2017 and they have almost already secured the overall title as long as they make it to the final in two out of the three last events. 1. Romain Desgranges FRA 47 : Janja Garnbret SLO 42 2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 42+ : Jessica Piltz AUT 42 3. Jakob Schubert AUT 42+ : Jain Kim KOR 41+ Complete results
Stefano Ghisolfi and Jakob Schubert have three straight tops coming into the final. At the same time as the male route was almost perfect the female route, where Janja Garnbret came almost to the top, started way too hard. In total, 19 female did fall in just three different moves 13+, 17+ and 19+.
Jan Hojer did not make it to the semi in Lead but with 7.38 in Speed, he was #12 and will compete in the final. This is the fastest time a Lead or Boulder specialist have done. Sean McColl who has competed in Speed for many years is normally doing it on 8.50 seconds. Jan's personal best before this comp was 8.40. Ashima Shiraishi was the second big name who tried it out and she was #19 out of 24 with 12.59. Here is the Speed Final where Jan climbs 17:45 and his Speed should put some pressure on other Lead and Boulder specialists. "I maybe climbed on the route 12-15 days. Usually about 4-6 tries each. I tried to copy Danyil's (Boldyrev, the 190 cm world record holder) beta and trained with him one day a couple of weeks ago. He analyzed my mistakes and although I had not much time to work on anything yet, I feel like I know a couple things about speed climbing now.I will start real speed training this winter I guess. In China i might compete but probably won't train speed again before that and focus more on lead training."
Jenya Kazbekova, Youth World Champion in 2010 who was #8 in Chamonix (Lead) and #13 in Munich (Bouldering) this year, has done her first 8c+ Güllich in Crimea. (c) Ilia Karpenko "First time I tried it was ten days ago. This route was really hard for me, but it was my style of climbing. First part is vertical wall with very small crimps and after is overhang with few powerful moves. I think, I did it in 10 attempts. In October I'm going to China on two World cups and after also in Slovenia. I hope, that I will have a chance to go on rocks after the season of comps. I would also like to try the Olympic format." Her father Serik has won World Cups both in Lead and Bouldering and her mother Nataliya Perlova, has a silver and a bronze in Bouldering World Championships. Jenya did her first 8b+ when she was 13 years old so all together the Ukraine family is among the most successful climbing families in the world.
This week's Friday Night Video takes us to the Arctic archipelago of the Lofoten Islands in Norway, where granite towers pierce through the sea in an incredible landscape of mountains, with quaint fishing villages nestled in the fjords. US climbers Caroline George and Katie Lambert visit the islands for the first time in this film, and their impression of the place matches that of many a visitor to Lofoten...
Training Beta has made a great one hour interview with Adam Ondra focusing on what it takes to do 9c; Physical training, physiotherapist, relaxation, speed, kneebars with calf focus, diet, visualization and being happy. This just might the most in-depth training interview ever done with Adam.
Alex Puccio, who just have won Arco Rock Master and Adidas Rockstar, has done her 22nd 8B, Riverbed in Magic Wood. "Psyched! second day on it. Also got to watch Joel (Zerr) smash the boulder first try today! This place is so beautiful, psyched for more boulders in the forest!!! :)" The 28 year old is #1 in the ranking game which she has been more or less for eight straight years in spite of some bad injuries. During her last 23 World Cups her worst result is #10 including taking the silver in the World Championship in 2014. (c) Joel Zerr " I will be taking over @vertical.life.climbing Instagram today! I will be posting some pictures from our climbing day and I'll post a story of our day, make sure to check out @vertical.life.climbing Insta!!!"
Cathy Wagner, who has done more than 600 8a and harder, has done two 8b's, Nelson Mandela and Paulololol in Verdon. Checking her scorecard we can see that she is at her peak with 11 routes 8a+ and harder the last 12 months. Cathy did her first 8a in 1994. Here are some previous comments from the 52 year old how she has been able to keep up her level. "I warm up less and less. I have not the patience to deal with and it's an error. My best flash routes have been done completely cold. The few warm up I do it's tai-chi movements, I started lessons a year ago. It permits at the moment for me to keep moving my energy with softness and to focus about the moves of the route I'm trying when I'm at the ground."
Еще один спонсор наших соревнований - питерская фирма Iloveclimbing - российский производитель спортивной магнезии.
In late August, British alpinist Tom Ballard attempted the North East face of Link Sar (7041m) in the Pakistan Karakoram alongside Italian mountaineer Daniele Nardi. Despite a bold effort in the face of heavy snowfall and avalanches, the pair were unfortunately forced to retreat due to bad weather after spending three days at 5700m.
Tom sent us an account of their attempt.
Paige Claasen reports on Facebook that she has done Odin's Eye 8c+ in Flatanger, after some ten days of projecting. On the picture from Trainingbeta she is on the, "burly undercling sequence that I struggled to link even from the hang. Paige, who was #14 in the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, has previously done Just do it 8c (+). So it seems she very well knows how to handle both 3D climbing as well wall climbing at crimpers. More info at her website On her Instagram she has added, Now I can move on to my secondary project of trash cleanup around the crag - the global climbing community should be embarrassed by all the trash that is tucked beneath that talus field. We're all to blame, as it's easy to accidentally leave things behind, but c'mon folks. We can definitely do a better job to keep our crags trash free!