Nine female and eight male Speed specialist can still make the Top-20 Combined results. As an example, if Danyil Boldyrev wins he will most likely make it although he was #99 and dead last in Lead and #101 and fourth last in Bouldering.
All big names but Sol Sa made it through and interesting was Shauna Coxey at #23. Janja Garnbret was the only one to flash both routes and another four Slovenians Top-18. Among the Speed specialists; Andrea Rojas #56, Anouck Jaubert #60, Aleksandra Kalucka #64 and YiLing Song #66. It just might be that if any of them are #1 and #2, we might have two Speed specialists getting and Olympic ticket even if one is more likely. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr
Sascha Lehmann, Jakob Schubert and Tomoa Narasaki flashed both qualification routes. Adam Ondra was #10 after one top and being #22 and Czech Republich had three guys in To-13. Japan got five through to the Top-26 semifinal and all their six participants Top-29. No big names failed to make it but some Olympic candidates struggled; #28 Jernej Kruder, #30 Nathaniel Coleman, #33 Jan Hojer, #38 Yannick Flohe, #39 Manuel Cornu and Michael Piccolruaz. Among the Speed specialist, Bassa Mawem was #60 which means that if he wins the Speed he will almost certain get an Olympic ticket. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr
1. Tomoa Narasaki 4 - 4 = 16 2. Alex Megos 17 - 1 = 17 2. Rishat Khaibullin 1 - 17 = 17 4. Kai Harada 6 - 3 = 18 5. Mickael Mawem 3 - 8 = 24 6. Jakob Schubert 15 - 2 = 30 7. Kokoro Fujii 5 - 7 = 35 8. Ludovico Fossali 2 - 20 = 40 8. Meichi Narasaki 8 - 5 = 40 10. Mickael Piccolruaz 7 - 13 = 91 11. Jernej Kruder 13 - 9 = 117 12. Adam Ondra 20 - 6 = 120 12. Nathaniel Coleman 10 - 12 = 120 14. Keita Dohi 11 - 11 = 121 15. Jongwon Chon 9 - 16 = 144 16. Jan Jojer 19 - 10 = 190 17. Rudolph Ruana 12 - 18 = 216 18. Yannick Flohe 16 - 14 = 224 19. Stefano Ghisolfi 14 - 19 = 266 20. Sean McColl 18 - 15 = 270 As we would expect the Top-8 cut will be around 400; probably the current Top-7 plus Adam Ondra will move to the final round. As it looks like we will have at least three from Japan Top-8, also #9 will probably make it through to Tokyo. This is a total open affair where also Ghisolfi and McColl is still in the running. If we get four from Japan Top-10, in theory even Fossali could make it although getting dead last also in Lead.
"I feel lucky that I win", Adam Ondra taking about Alex Megos mistake midways up the very hard route. Adam further more said he was very tired after the Bouder final and could not understand how he could grab the last hold which eventually made him win. Adam has now got a medal in seventh consecutive Lead WCH, out of which three golds. (c) Vladek Zumr 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Alex Megos GER 3. Jakob Schubert AUT 4. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 5. Sean McColl CAN 6. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 7. Kai Harada JPN 8. Hannes Puman SWE Complete results
Pete Whittaker has done the second repeat of Nicolas Favresse's Recovery drink 8c+ in Jössingfjord, Norway after some 25 sessions. He started working on the big overhanging crack in 2015 and did it on his fourth trip. "I think it's generally considered to be 8c+, which seems to sit in line with all the other 5.14 trad routes I've done." Full story on Pete's Facebook. "Miraculously I found myself mid crux with some power in the tank. Not much, but some, and albeit feeling the sag, some is always enough for something extra to happen. Left heal went on for the match and it didn’t come off, which was a surprise, because I was milking it much more than the hold really allowed. I realised I better carry on, so shut my eyes to try harder and fondled for the jam doughnut. I then realised I couldn’t see a bloody thing, so opened them again, found I was still connected to the wall, flipped my hand the ‘correct way’ and unbelievably found myself established beyond the crux. Blimey!" What is next? I have the launch of my book 'Crack Climbing' this winter, so very focused on that. I also heard 'Silence' has a foot jam on it, so I might go and see if I can hang the move.
Big drama with the Ondra bolt incident in the end that including the multiplication format, as well as four Japanese into the final, just made it almost too much. Further more the commentators keep saying that Japan will select two to Tokyo which they can not know. In the end, it was Sean McColl who had a very poor round in both Speed and Boulder, who was the biggest lucky winner of an Olympic ticket. Sean started of with a Z-clip but kept on fighting and looked not so pleased falling being #3. Then every result of the remaining climbers did go exactly as they should. (c) Vladek Zumr Very lucky indeed was indeed also Ludovico Fossali, who although being dead last in both Lead and Boulder he got himself a ticket to Tokyo. 1. Alex Megos 17 - 1 - 1 = 17 2. Jakob Schubert 15 - 2 - 2 = 60 3. Tomoa Narasaki 4 - 4 - 7 = 112 4. Kokoro Fujii 5 - 7 - 5 = 175 5. Kai Harada 6 - 3 -13 = 234 6. Rishar Khaibullin 1 - 17 - 16 = 272 7. Meichi Narasaki 8 - 5 - 10 = 400 8. Mickael Mawem 83 - 8 - 18 = 432 Also getting an Olympic ticket 9. Ludovico Fossali 2 - 20 - 20 = 800 10. Sean McColl 18 - 15 - 3 = 810 Complete results
The men's Combined qualification round has selected the first 8 male athletes eligible for Tokyo 2020 Olympic quota places. Due to the fact that Japan has 4 athletes qualified for the Combined final but can only take 2 Olympic spots, all 4 athletes from other countries in the final plus the 9th and 10th place competitor are guaranteed an Olympic ticket for consideration by their National Olympic Committee.
Big drama in the end of the Lead. Adam Ondra needed to be at least #3 to guarantee a place in the Top-8 Combined final. He put on cruise control but suddenly, looking very strong, a foot slipped and he was #3 before last man out Tomoa Narasaki. He also looked very strong but suddenly he fell so Adam was in. Then the commentators said there was a technical bolt-standing incident with Adam who was put down to #18 and 23 as his score. Later on the IFSC page his score was changed into 10 and on the picture you see the incident. Most probably there will be an appeal as you only get marked down if you can have made use of the bolt. Just a touch of the bolt that does not help you is normally ok. So the big question is if Ondra weighted the bolt?
Very exciting finish in the Combined Lead qualifications where actually Shauna Coxsey finished #3 and won overall. The big surprises were that Janja Garnbret was #8 in Lead but there might be an appeal as she was not awarded the last hold she touched. Winner in Lead was Ai Mori topping out in great style meaning she also got her a spot, including three other Japaneses, to the final although being #18 and #16 in Speed and Boulder. The Top-7 are qualified to the Olympics but as only one from Japan will be selected from the WCH, also #9 Brooke Raboutou and #9 Jessica Pilz made it through. (It should be said that the commentators said that only Brooke got a ticket as they said that two from Japan will be selected from the WCH. This is probably not correct according to the official qualification information.) It should also be mentioned that if Brooke and Jessica had been climbing faster they would have made it to the Top-8 which had kicked out Miho Nonaka. 1. Shauna Coxsey 14 - 1 - 3 = 42 2. Akiyo Noguchi 10 - 4 - 2 = 80 3. Janja Garnbret 7 - 2 - 8 = 56 4. Petra Klingler 8 - 3 - 12 = 288 5. Ai Mori 18 - 16 - 1 = 288 6. Futaba Ito 4 - 5 - 15 = 300 7. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 - 19 - 20 = 390 8. Miho Nonaka 5 - 6 - 14 = 420
The male boulder final turned out way too hard with Jakob Schubert getting the silver by only getting three zones. Tomoa Narasaki somewhat saved the show by getting two tops but was not even close on the remaining two. Third was Yannick Flohe, in reality being the closest to get a top beside Narasak, although suffering from bleeding fingers. Adam Ondra, who won the semi, was not even close to get one zone on the tricky and almost only coordination and jumping challenging boulders. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr
Shauna Coxsey has qualified in 1st place for finals on Tuesday after the Combined qualification round. In an exciting twist, due to the fact that Japan has 4 athletes qualified for the Combined final but can only take 2 Olympic spots, all 4 athletes from other countries in the final plus the 9th place competitor are guaranteed an Olympic ticket for consideration by their National Olympic Committee. Shauna has qualified in 1st place for the Combined final after placing 14th in Speed, 1st in Boulder and 3rd in Lead.
Состоится: 28 сентября 2019
28-29 сентября на скалодроме "Вверх" пройдут краевые и городские соревнования в дисциплине "трудность". Предварительные заявки - не позднее 15 сентября.
Состоится: 15 сентября 2019
Выездная тренировка. На один день.