Sport climbing came one step closer to earning a place at a second Olympic Games yesterday. At the 134th International Olympic Committee session in Lausanne, Switzerland, the IOC unanimously voted to provisionally include Sport Climbing in the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Surfing, skateboarding and break dancing (breaking) were also provisionally voted in.
Babsi Zangerl reports on Insta that she has done Pre-Muir wall which is a 30 pitch 8b in Yosemite. (c) Jacopo Larcher Babsi has previoulsy done three other big multi-pitches in Yosemite and many others all over. In this discipline she is superior among the female and also one of the very best among the male. Including also 9a in Sport and 8B in bouldering, the Austrian is the best female rock climber in the world.
Maggie Odette, who did her first 8b+ at 44, has done her fourth, Eulogy in Maple Canyon. "Surprise! Never 1- or even 2-hung it. Terrible day on it on Friday, then miraculously got through the Millenium portion for the first time of the season yesterday, sent 2nd go of the day. Super weird. Unheard of for me...second go is usually a disaster! Yay!"
IOC has unanimously voted to approve the approval to include Sport Climbing in Paris 2024. The proposal was to have have two set of medals, Speed Climbing with 16 athletes per gender respectively Lead and Boulder with 20 athletes per gender in a new Combined discipline. The final decision will be taken in December 2020. Read more
Chiara Hanke, who previously has done five 8c’s has become the first women to do a 9a in Frankenjura via, Sever the Wicked Hand. More info and pics on her Insta. (c) Hans Radetzki ”I started climbing at the age of 13 after a shoulder surgery. Before that I was passionate about wakeboarding. Actually I just wanted to get fit for wakeboarding again quickly. A climbing hall had opened around the corner from me at the time. That was so much fun for me that I stayed with it. Then everything went very fast: competitions, member of the national team, more competitions. I didn‘t get to really climb outside until the end of 2017, when I started climbing again after a knee injury lasting almost 3 months. That was a lot of fun for me and motivation! In 2018 I only climbed outside besides training. Wallstreet was certainly a highlight of it. For me it was and still is important to climb many routes and climbb in general. I really don't like to try routes to often. Then I have the feeling not to climb any more and I miss just doing moves."
Bill Ramsey (59), a professor in philosphy, has done Jumbo Pumping Hate 8b+ in Clark Mountain put up by Randy Leavitt. (c) Max Fox "I like what Randy Leavitt said: "Don't let your mind get old because your body will follow." While your various strengths and capacities diminish with age, your ability to try hard doesn't. Rest more and warm-up more, but when it's game time, try really hard." How many sessions did it take and did you do any specific training? I’m not sure how many sessions, but I worked on it for about three seasons. I tried recreating the crux dyno in my garage to train on, and that probably helped. I also made a point of training while projecting to avoid project-atrophy. Sometimes that would involve taking a few days off to train, sometimes it would involve training before or after a day at the cliff. How is your approach towards doing hard routes now compared to 10, 20 and 30 years ago? It’s the same, only I probably put less pressure on myself now. I want to send, but just having a good day up there with friends, where I feel good about my effort is also gratifying. What is it mentally, taking about motivation, that keeps you pushing so hard? I think the hype about always being positive is mostly BS. It’s better to be a realistic optimist – being honest and realistic about your chances, about what needs improving, but trying hard when you have a shot. Some days are going to really suck and you just need to take those in stride. You also need mini-goals (high-points, or low-points, linkage goals) and strategic objectives every day. And no matter how well you think you know a route, there is always more to learn. Even if a slight tweak in beta that only saves .5% of energy, if you find 4 of those you are climbing 2% stronger, which can be huge.
Ben Burkhalter, who did his first 8A+ in 2017 after just having climbed for three years, has done his first 8B+, Jade in RMNP. (c) Sam Weir "Wow! Did “the move” 3rd try.. should have finished it my 1st session, but due to a total fluke I split my left pointer finger on the start hold while giving it bottom goes. Went back up 4 days later on the last day of my trip with 2 fingers still split and real humid weather. I super glued my skin and somehow managed it! So psyched and I’m truly honored to send this finger strength testpiece at age 17! Total Hail Mary on the last day!"
Earlier this year Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker (AKA the Wideboyz) travelled back to their favourite crack haunt of Canyonlands National Park in Utah, where they established another hard first ascent in the White Rim – Black Mamba 5.14b – which may be their hardest roof crack yet. This ascent came just days after they made the first repeats of Necronomicon 5.13d/5.14a.
A film about their trip has just been released, which features all the grit (OK, sandstone in this case), determination and hilarity that we've come to know of this pair's adventures. Are you prepared to try so hard that your underwear breaks?
Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the first repeat of Anak Verhoeven's Sweet neuf 9a+ in Pierrot Beach. (c) Simon Destombes "I did 7 sessions before the send. It was all the time a little bit wet and it caused me troubles. But I knew if I could send the 9a I will not fall in the second part in 8b. I climbed only 3 times in the extension and I knew it will be ok. It’s big moves on chipped holds, a stamina effort and I’m used to deal with these kind of routes." Cedric has previously done three 9a+ and some 20 routes graded 9a. The 35 year old has won two Lead WC's and in 2007 he was #3 in both the Lead and Boulder World Championship.
James Webb, the #1 in the ranking game who has recorded 1 515 climbs in his scorecard, has done the FA of The Healing 8B+ in Cederberg. "Maybe the best line I've ever climbed? Massive thanks to Arjan and Keen for the support!" (c) Keenan Takahashi More info on Jimmy's latest Insta, starting with, "Finally back in my favorite place on earth. ZA" He has also already have had time to do Black Eagle assis in Rocklands giving it a personal 8B+ grade. Jimmy is the top boulderer in the world, like Adam Ondra for routes, that gives most personal grades and some of his FAs have been upgraded.