Новости Скалолазания

8a.nu - вт, 01/12/2020 - 03:00

8C+ FA by Dai Koyamada (43)

Fanatic Climbing repots that boulder legend Dai Koyamada has done yet unnamned 8C+ FA. "He described the boulder as a very complicated 10 moves 8B° into a 7C at the lip, with complex and technical moves (he gave no name to his creation). Dai is thinking the grade up to 8C, and gives the 8C+ grade proposition."
8a.nu - вт, 31/12/2019 - 03:00

Kokoro Fujii wins in Toulouse

1. Kokoro Fujii 5 - 2 - 3 = 20 (c) Vladek Zumr 2. Adam Ondra 8 - 3 - 1 = 24 3. Meichi Narasaki 4 - 1 - 7 = 28 4. Bassa Mawem 1 - 8 - 8 = 64 5. Jan Hojer 2 - 7 - 5 = 70 6. YuFei Pan 3 - 4 - 6 = 72 7. Alberto Gines Lopez 7 - 5 - 3 = 105 8. Nathaniel Coleman 6 - 6 - 4 = 144 Complete results Noteworthy is that Adam Ondra stopped his first Speed heat against Bassa Mawem and then choose to not try any more heats. It was said he was not feeling good but nevertheless he was third in bouldering. Good route setting in terms of separation in the boulder final although two almost vertical walls and one just slightly overhanging. In the final, Adam fell one move from the top and actually Kokoro Fujii just one move behind. This was the Japanese best ever Lead result but he will not go to Tokyo as Tomoa Narasaki and Kai Harada already got the slots in the World Championship. The live streaming lasted almost 4.5 hours out of which 105 minutes for the boulder final.
8a.nu - вт, 31/12/2019 - 03:00
8a.nu - пн, 30/12/2019 - 03:00

Extreme Speed Drama in Lead

YiLing Song, the Speed specialist who was #2 in that event, was the lucky #9 overall and nevetherless got a ticket althoughnot making ot to the Top-8a final. The reason for this is that both Ai Mori, the only one to Top out, and Futaba Ito can not get ticket as the Japan country quota has already been filled. Further more, the Slovenians, Lucka Rakovec #2 overall and Mia Krampl #3 overall, are fighting for only one remaining place to Tokyo. X. Ai Mori JPN 44 1. Lucka Rakovec SLO 45 2. Mia Krampl SLO 120 3. Laura Rogara ITA 256 X. Futaba Ito JPN 392 4. Julia Chanourdie FRA 420 5. Iuliia Kaplina RUS RUS 441 6. Kyra Kondie USA 528 9. YiLing Song CHN 760 Complete results
8a.nu - вс, 29/12/2019 - 03:00

Lucka Rakovec wins Boulder

Lucka Rakovec from Slovenia started last and executed the four boulders in seven tries, three less than Ai Mori from Japan and nine less than Mia Krampl also from Slovenia. This means probably that Rakovec has qualified to the final. It just might she will have to fight Mia Krampl over the only remaining slot for Slovenia, as Janja Garnbret already qualified. Overall the setting was great were only the five Speed specialists failed to get a top. Anouck Jaubert got all four zones and was pretty close on two tops performing on a much higher level compared to the Speed specialists. However, as she was #4 in Speed she needs more than a miracle to make it to the Top-8 after the Lead event. Noteworthy is that all but two of the non-Speed specialists got all four zones. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr
8a.nu - чт, 12/12/2019 - 03:00
8a.nu - пн, 09/12/2019 - 03:00

La Reina Mora 9a (8c+) Moritz Welt (18)

Moritz Welt, #3 in the Combined ranking game, has done Ramon Puiblanque's La Reina Mora in Siurana. He put it up as an 8c but nowadays most think it deserves 9a. (c) Julia Cassou "Siurana target #2 and my ultimate Spain trip goal! Wanted to do this one since I stood the first time below this perfect line two years ago! So happy to finish this in only 4 more sessions this time!" The 18-year-old is on a three months road trip in Spain, mainly in Margalef and Siurana. His next project is possible First Ley 9a+. "Sometimes I'd be happy about a little more comfort but I enjoy it. Also I have to save money. I will go back around christmas. Maybe then first some Frankenjura bouldering and making up some plans for spring."
8a.nu - 10 часов 26 минут назад

Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Stefano Carnati

Stefano Carnati, who previoulsy has done eleven routes 9a and harder, has done his first 8C, Dreamtime in Cresciano. "Yoo! Did the stand one month ago (which I tried a few days over the past years) and it took me 2 more sessions to finish it off. 8B+, 8C, I'm definitely not the one who can tell, but who cares with such a line! So stoked!" The classical Fred Nicole boulder was put up as the first 8C in the world which later was downgraded but since a hold broke most think it should be up there again. More important is the stunning line and all the 21 who have star rated it has given it three stars like Stefano!
8a.nu - чт, 05/12/2019 - 03:00

Drischiebl right 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber

Karoline Sinnhuber has done her ninth 8A+ in 2019, Drischiebl right in Zillertal. (c) Fabian Leu The 24-year-old former competition boulderer is having her best year ever and is #4 in the 8a ranking game. "The reason why this is my best year so far, might be that I just concentrate on the outdoor stuff and don‘t have to train comp style anymore and of course I spend much more time outdoors than the years before. Might sound weird, but I also spend more time in the gym for training than I did during my comp career."
8a.nu - чт, 05/12/2019 - 03:00

Speed in Lead decides who go to Tokyo

Stefano Ghisolfi was the first one to Top the Lead route which later also Sasha Lehmann, Alberto Gines Lomez and Adam Ondra did. As Sasha tied Stefano's time, by the second, and later Ondra, climbing last, was the fastest, Ghisolfi lost his Olympic dream and instead finished #12. Although there will be a final on Saturday the six spots to Tokyo is already decided as also Kokoro Fujii and Meichi Narasaki made it to the Top-8 final. The results also means that both France and Germany have filled their max country quota as Japn did in the World Championship. Complete results 1. Adam Ondra CZE Vladek Zumr 2. YueFei Pan CHN 3. Alberto Gines Lopez ESP 4. Jan Hojer GER 5. Bassa Mawem FRA X. Kokoro Fujii JPN 6. Nathaniel Coleman USA X. Meichi Narasaki JPN Another dramatic example how much impact Speed had in Lead. If Sasha had been the fastest to Top, he had made it to Tokyo instead of being #15.
8a.nu - чт, 05/12/2019 - 03:00

Two 8c's by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (14)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 9a last year, has done two 8c's and two 8b+'s in Osp/Misja Pec during just ten days.
8a.nu - ср, 04/12/2019 - 03:00

The Clinic 9a+ FA by Edu Marin in China

Edu Marin, who just opened one of the hardest MP's in the world in China, has done the FA of The Clinic 9a+ in Quzhou. It is located in a big cave with incredible holes and it is like 20 meters long. The Spaniard bolted it in October and it has been an intense struggle to take it down. Now he feels in great shape and are looking forward to return home and continue with his projects in Catalunya.
8a.nu - ср, 04/12/2019 - 03:00

Jerimiah Daiabolical 8B by Isabelle Faus

Isabelle Faus, who did her third 8B+ this summer, has done her 23rd 8B, Jerimiah Daiabolical in Coal Creek. Isa extends her lead in the 8a ranking game.
8a.nu - ср, 04/12/2019 - 03:00

Фестиваль трудности "Вверх"

Поздравляем Дашу Бузову с золотом, Дашу Ткаченко и Илью Чижевского с бронзой!

Клуб Эль Капитан - вт, 03/12/2019 - 12:15

NEWS: Election 2019 - What Do Party Promises Mean for the Outdoors?

With a General Election in the offing, we trawl through the manifestos to look at what the main parties are offering from our niche perspective of the outdoors.
UKclimbing.com - вт, 03/12/2019 - 12:00

Lethal design 8A+ by Alizée Dufraisse

Alizée Dufraisse, who this summer did her third 8B, has done her seventh 8A+, Lethal Design in Red Rocks and it just took her one session. "It was tall so I was sycked there was a lot of pads for the ending! I think 9 pads and 3 good spot, haha. I had cold fingers and didn't check the top before. It was epic :) It is 8a+ tho! I stay in red rocks for 3 more weeks, probably try to do some route climbing too for keeping the resistance high for route climbing in Spain, but mostly bouldering because it s really cold here!"
8a.nu - вт, 03/12/2019 - 03:00

Arzak 8C by Eliot Stephens

Eliot Stephens, who six months ago had done two 8B+', has had an amazing one month trip around Ticino where he did eleven boulders 8A+ and harder including three 8B+' andArzak 8C in Murgtal. "Great line from Fred with some excellent movement. A nice milestone. Love this style. Next time we go back... from the last, to the first. " The 27-year-old talks about Nicole's FAs, meaning his next goal is Dreamtime. How can you explain your recent peak performance? I had maybe 3 years of one bad finger pulley injury after another. Feel like I have been on the same level for a while, and don’t feel like I really jumped up a level in the last years, just things have started working out. I suppose if you work hard enough eventually he results come Mainly last 12 months I have avoided injury, that is really the key. Allowed my fingers to progress as they should have and not kept taking steps backwards. I also made more focus on rock climbing. And just tried more stuff near my limit." Next plan is to train until spring and then think about where to go next. want to get back to Swiss for Dreamtime
8a.nu - вт, 03/12/2019 - 03:00
8a.nu - вт, 03/12/2019 - 03:00

NEWS: IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse - Report

IFSC commentator Charlie Boscoe sums up the final competition of the 2019 IFSC season - and what an event it was. A further 12 Olympic quota places were decided, with plenty of drama...

Sport is rarely about everything going perfectly and you delivering your very best in ideal conditions, it's generally a battle of who can react best to what is going on around them. Toulouse would certainly be an example of that.

UKclimbing.com - пн, 02/12/2019 - 12:00

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