Isabelle Faus, who previously has done two 8B+’, has done her 14th 8B, Doppelgänger Poltergeist in RMNP, in just four sessions. James Lucas ”Did all the moves the first day and fell on the end on the 2nd, then the boulder started being wet. Ending up doing it while it was soaked just cause I was so psyched, and i tired super super hard to make sure I finished it! Psyched to step my game up more! Great power endurance boulder tho! Definitely a hard 8b, excited to feel good coming to Africa :)"
A Polish-German team consisting of Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg have summitted Gasherbrum II in the Karakoram, making what is arguably the first ascent of the true west face. The first ascent on the west face was in 1975 (Onyszkiewicz, Zdzitowiecki) who entered from the left side of the face (NW). In 1995, Carsolio entered the right side of the wall (SW). Also climbing on this expedition, team members Jacek Czech (POL) returned to base camp from 7500m and Borys Dedeszko (KAZ) retired at 7800m.
Spanish youth champion Mikel Linacisoro and Julija Kruder won the Psicoblock Masters in A Coruña, Spain, during the Street Stunts festival. Nacho Sánchez set the superb routes where the fastest climber of each round was the winner. The final rounds were super exciting due to the rain and the wet top holds. Mikel won the comp just one hold further than psicobloc legend Chris Sharma. The comp format was brilliant and a completly success despite the rain in front of 3.000 spectators. In the picture venezuelan Francis Guillén learning to fly on the training session before the comp. ©Talo Martín 1-Mikel Linacisoro ESP - Julija Kruder SLO 2-Chris Sharma USA - Svana Bjarnason FRA 3-Fanny Gibert FRA - Jernej Kruder SLO
Manu Lopez has done his third 9a FA, Coup fourré in Faron nord after some 30 days of projecting it. Fanatic Climbing has the full report including more pics by (c) Théo Cartier "I wanted to finish it this spring before the birth of my son but conditions were bad and the route remained wet. I finally did good progress after the birth, tired by short nights but more fresh with more rests between the climbing days."
Adam Ondra has done the FA of Disbelief 9b in Acephale. "Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish." More info on his Insta where he also says, "I cannot think many other routes where I climbed so close to my limit."(c) Petr Pavlicek - Bernartwood In total Adam has now, beside three 9b+' and one 9c FAs, 19 routes graded 9b out of which 13 FAs. The runner ups in the 9b and harder stat are Chris Sharma with eight routes followed by Stefano Ghisolfi four, Alex Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dani Andrada with three.
Adam Ondra has done the FA of Diebelief 9b in Acephale after eight days of projecting. "Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish." More info on his Insta where he also says, "I cannot think many other routes where I climbed so close to my limit."(c) Petr Pavlicek - Bernartwood In total Adam has now, beside three 9b+' and one 9c FAs, 19 routes graded 9b out of which 13 FAs. The runner ups in the 9b and harder stat are Chris Sharma with eight routes followed by Alex Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dani Andrada with three.
Jessica Pilz, winner in Chamonix last week, topped the spectacular route putting pressure on Anak Verhoeven and Janja Garnbret who started last out. Anak did also reach the top jug but fell of meanwhile Janja seemed to have full control, securing her tenth Lead WC victory. Among the male, Alex Megos got his first victory by getting two holds further than the rest touching the last hold. He said he thought the route suited his style with some crimpers in the end instead of the modern volume and vulcano style holds. Noteworthy is that none of the athletes were even close to be timed out so it seems the athletes are getting used to climb a bit faster at the same time the route setting was quite straight forward. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Alex Megos GER 2. Jessica Pilz AUT - Roman Desgranges FRA 3. Anak Verhoeven BEL - Domen Skofic SLO Complete results
Our Friday Night Video this week documents Adam Ondra's recent trip to the Canadian Rockies. The film gives a superb insight into what it takes to climb at the highest level, from the most mundane aspects such as skin management to the tactics Adam employs whilst onsighting. 8b warm ups and hard onsights are par for the course for Adam, although he admits that occasionally 'you can easily fall on 8c...'
Kind of a slow semi until Anak Verhoeven was timed out and pulled down as she was getting ready for dynoing to the top. Then, http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=7146&cat=1suddenly, a heavy rain storm started as Janja Garnbret and Romain Desgranges started to climb and luckily they both made it to the finals as the wall begun to get wet from above. If the rain storm would have come just some minuters earlier, the whole semi might have been cancelled. Noteworthy is that 50 % of the female finalists come from Slovenia and Domen Skofic leading among the male. It should also be mentioned that most of the best Japanese and Jain Kim from Korea did not participate due to the Asian cup coming up. Nevertheless, Japan did have seven guys into the semi. Complete results
Oriane Bertone has during the last two weeks done ten routes 8a to 8b including four flashes where La Ballade d’abdallah 8a+ in St Leger sticks out. Previously the 13 year old has done two 8B boulders, being 11 years old, and one 8B+ being 12.
Emma Twyford has made the 5th ascent of Steve Mayer's Nightmayer E8 6c on Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. The route features sustained technical climbing, long run-outs, some iffy gear and a tricky high crux. It was made famous by a video of Belgian climber Nico Favresse taking a huge lob from the top crux, which was also written about by Nick Bullock (UKC article).
Cathy Wagner has done her 15th 8b, Requiem in Précipice de Corbière. The almost 53 year old did her first 8b being 35 years old and as a matter of, during the last year she has done three 8b's and 16 routes 8a+, meaning she has her best year ever. In total, Cathy has done 670 routes 8a and harder, out of which possibly a third second go. "Really unexpected to do this outstanding king line! A massive overhang offering climbing at its best:perfect rock, two hard sections, a technical wall at the end and knee bars to make it possible to control this beast! What a great day shared with a lot of friendly climbers! Super contente!!"