Новости Скалолазания

8a.nu - вт, 01/12/2020 - 03:00

Rocks and Needles in Laos

Isabelle and Volker Schöffl are both active climbers and medical doctors. Both have done first ascents up to french 8b, many of them in Laos and Thailand.They are team physicians to the German Climbing team and Volker is a member of the MedCom IFSC and author of „One move too many“. They have done 100+ scientific papers on climbing medicine and are teaching world wide on this topic. They are right now working for an aid organization as doctors in Laos where they also were among the pioneers for Thakhek. Injury Prevention in Rock Climbing and Bouldering.
8a.nu - 19 часов 10 минут назад
8a.nu - 19 часов 10 минут назад
8a.nu - сб, 04/04/2020 - 03:00

FRI NIGHT VID: Rampage - Classic Bouldering Flick with Chris Sharma

This week's Friday Night Video is the quintessential bouldering film: Rampage. Released in 1999, it features a youthful, 19-year-old Chris Sharma roaming around the American west with friends Obe Carrion, Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell. Travelling in an old RV, the team visit emerging bouldering areas and establish hundreds of problems over a two month period. Rampage was one of the first films by climbing film giants Josh and Brett Lowell, who have gone on to be part of the team responsible for the Reel Rock Tour.

UKclimbing.com - пт, 03/04/2020 - 19:00

VIDEO: In Isolation - Ep. 1: Meiringen Boulder World Cup 2019 Women's Final ft. Oceana Mackenzie

Disappointed to miss out on 2020 IFSC competition action? The season might be up in the air, but UKC will be bringing you In Isolation: a weekly socially-distant chat show which will hopefully go some way to giving you a fill of past-season action, with fond memories of former World Cup events and some famous faces as guests.

Our first episode reflects on the 2019 Meiringen Boulder World Cup - which ordinarily would have taken place once again this weekend - and we have finalist Oceana Mackenzie along to chat about the women's event. Find out why Meiringen has become such a popular stop on the IFSC circuit, and how Oceana fared in her first ever World Cup final. 

UKclimbing.com - пт, 03/04/2020 - 11:00

A Swedish gym taking precautions

In Sweden, all gyms are open following the official guidelines. Klätterdomen in Göteborg has tried to go further and is offering liquid chalk to everyone. They do also clean much more frequently and they tell both their customers as well as workers to stay at home even if they just have very mild symptoms of a cold. Currently, they estimate a 50 % drop of climbers meaning there are plenty room in their gym. Their spring Mega boulder was canceled and instead, they run a competition during one month via the Vertical-Life App. Lars Höström is the founder of the gym and he reports. "Climbers are very happy that we are open and they strictly follow the guidelines. Nobody showers here and, in fact, as there are so few climbers here and we are offering liquid chalk and clean much more often, it is a nice atmosphere. Climbers do not hang here long hours as they used to. Instead, some quick boulders or laps, often on the auto-belay, and they are off. Climbers are keen of doing the new boulders for the competition and it is great that this can be organized in the Vertical-Life App.
8a.nu - пт, 03/04/2020 - 03:00

Eric Hörst on the USA quarantine and hang boarding

Eric Hörst. one of the leading climbing trainers the last 20 years, reports from the current situation in USA. "All gyms are closed in the USA. There will be no outdoor climbing for us this in April (and perhaps May) due to stay-at-home orders. Luckily we have a well-equipped home gym with bouldering wall, treadwall, campus board, more than 12 different hangboards, free weights and more. So we are training like it's winter. Sad that we are losing the Spring climbing season, but happy that we are healthy and able to train at home together. Praying this COVID-19 plays out quickly and the world (And climbers) can return to normalcy sometime this summer. Here in Pennsylvania we can only leave our house to get food and medicine...and to exercise. Each USA state has slightly difference restrictions, but 80% of the country has stay-at-home orders...so most climbers are following this order and staying home (but certainly there are some climbers going outside to climb)." 16GMT (18.00 Euro Time) he will run a live streaming talking - Hangboard training protocols....and planning for a positive future beyond COVID-19, through his Coffe Training Talk.
8a.nu - пт, 03/04/2020 - 03:00

French climbers got a 135 Euro ticket

In France, you are allowed to go out doing short walks in your close neighborhood but you need to have to carry a paper saying where you live, when you left your home and why etc. It is thus strictly forbidden to go out climbing. Nevertheless, some do and some have got caught having to pay 135 Euros in both Fontainebleau and Céüse and as other crags. There are several controls and it is said that Verdon is controlled with drones, see the picture. When the police see cars parked in the forest they check them and tickets of Euro 135 are given out. Please respect the restrictions in each country so not climbers get a bad reputation. It should be mentioned that in some countries like Sweden, there are almost no restrictions at all and there are more climbers outside rock climbing than normal. The recommendation is however that you should not travel during Easter.
8a.nu - пт, 03/04/2020 - 03:00

Stretch suggestions from Ondra's trainer

Stretching is probably the easiest way to progress for most of us. Here are some advice we published in 2018 from Klaus Isele, MSc D.O. Physiotherapeut and Osteopath of the Austria National Climbing Team and Adam Ondra. "If it’s the case that you always fall off your slab project just because your hips can’t stay close enough to the wall stretching exercises could maybe help. If you do proper stretching you might achieve your goals faster and better. Bodyweight and stretching have something in common. You might not have the perfect body weight for climbing. Nature puts you somewhere but with some effort, you can gain or lose some kilograms. What I still monitor is that some climbers believe that it is enough to stretch for 40 seconds in order to get “longer” = forget it. You need to hold a stretching position for two minutes (I often recommend three times the same position with that holding time). That works! To really gain length you have to repeat it every day. Your results will be visible after approximately 14 days. Afterward depending on what you want to achieve keep going. If you’ve forgotten to stretch one day, you are thrown back for about four days, especially at the beginning. The so-called hysteresis phenomenon is the base of this, if you want you can say that it is the “supercompensation” of stretching. CONCLUSION: There is no wrong or right stretching, it just depends on what you wanna achieve with it. If you prepare yourself for climbing it might be sufficient for you to stretch for 30 seconds. But if you are really interested in gaining length in some muscular areas then you need to work on every section for two minutes in every stretching position."
8a.nu - пт, 03/04/2020 - 03:00

Local gyms need our help now

Climbing gyms are run with a lot of heart and personal commitment and investment from their founders and operators. During these difficult times due to Covid-19, many climbing gym owners and managers fear that months of closures and restrictions will be life-threatening for their businesses. They cannot afford to have no income for several months, but still continue to pay their monthly costs. Especially since it’s not foreseeable when normal operations can be resumed. It’s in every climber’s interest to have a place to meet, climb and train when this difficult period is over. We’ve gathered a few ideas and ways that we think we can all contribute: Pay now & enjoy later: Buy punch cards NOW, Keep your monthly gym membership up and running, Buy entry, food or coffee vouchers as an Easter or birthday gift, Make a pre-payment for the renewal of your yearly pass, Check if your gym offers other options to support them. Are you a lawyer, tax consultant or working in the banking sector? Then perhaps you can now advise your gym in dealing with the difficult situation and help them to apply for emergency aid and special loans. The current crisis has left nearly no one unscathed. Yet, all we see is a constant wave of solidarity and support from people and industries everywhere. Let's make sure we keep giving what we can to our climbing communities which in turn gives us their all.
8a.nu - пт, 03/04/2020 - 03:00

Santoku 8B by Dorothea Karalus

Dorothea Karalus, who previously has done four 8B's, did Santoku 8B in Ticino, six weeks ago. (c) Simon Weisser "The past weeks made me appreciate how lucky we are to experience these intense adventures, to travel freely, to be healthy. I'm for sure more grateful than ever for this. Looking forward to more climbing experiences like this, but for now let's figure out how to get through this together! Staying healthy physically and mentally, being there for others (while #physicaldistancing) and maybe even getting a bit stronger with all this training going on." More info of the 34-year-old working full time as a software developer on her wordpress website.
8a.nu - пт, 03/04/2020 - 03:00

A new sector in Kalymnos to dream about

Little Eden is located some 35 min walk or 5 min with boat from Vathy. It is in the shade from 12 o'clock and currently, there are some 25 routes bolted primarily 6a to 7b but there are more potential for easier routes.
8a.nu - чт, 02/04/2020 - 03:00

8A (+) in an hour by Irina Kuzmenko

Irina Kuzmenko has done Super Djin in Triangular lake. As it only took an hour, she gave it a personal 8A grade. (c) Leo Zhukov "It’s more quiet here in Russia with Covid-19. Today our government made something like a quarantine but it’s not so strict. I already know the people who were ill with covid-19 and now she feels good and healthy!" It should be mentioned that in many countries like Italy, Spain and France it is not allowed to go out rock climbing. In some countries like Sweden there re very few restrictions. Also the gyms are open.
8a.nu - чт, 02/04/2020 - 03:00

NEWS: Climbers and Walkers Urged to Donate 'Backpack Bogroll'

In this time of crisis Britain's hill-goers have been called on to dig deep, by donating spare toilet roll stashes from their packs in aid of a nation caught short.

UKclimbing.com - ср, 01/04/2020 - 10:00

NEWS: Fingerboarding to Replace Speed Climbing in Tokyo 2020 Games

Due to the impact of COVID-19 on the climbing competition calendar - including the postponement of multiple IFSC events and the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games - the IOC has approved an appeal by the IFSC to switch Speed climbing for fingerboarding given the current explosion of the discipline and the lack of access to the homologated Speed route for athletes.

UKclimbing.com - ср, 01/04/2020 - 09:00

Practice and Ethics in rock climbing - Traffic Light

In sport climbing, compared to most other sports, there are few written rules or use of referees. Instead, the climbing community creates and circulates their own Practice & Ethics. Beginners are sometimes struggling to understand what is "normal" behavior and what's allowed and what's not. Over time, the general procedure has been modified and in different subcultures different ethics apply. We thought it would be a good idea to discuss and define good style as of today and also give some amusing examples of violations that are practised in order to receive sponsors, glory and points. We're not saying there's a definite line between right and wrong but the fundamental idea is: don't systematically push the border of ethics towards more subjectivity, instead, keep the spirit alive. Here is a list of what 8a thinks are practices within sport climbing that are frequently interpreted in different ways; Green, Yellow and Red card are given. We estimate that about 1/3 of all ascents would not pass community approval. What do you think? Practice and Ethics in rock climbing
8a.nu - ср, 01/04/2020 - 03:00

The 2020 Games are scheduled to begin July 23, 2021

All 30 male and female already qualified for Tokyo 2020 will hold their spots. There are still five male and female yet to qualify.
8a.nu - ср, 01/04/2020 - 03:00

GOOD NEWS: Climbing by Numbers: Dad uses Home Climbing Wall to Teach Kids Maths

As parents across the globe struggle to keep their kids educated and entertained while schools are closed, Bournemouth-based dad-of-two David Bryant came up with an idea. He recently posted a video on Facebook of a stay-at-home maths lesson in the garden. Using a makeshift climbing wall on the side of his shed, David has been teaching his two young daughters numbers, maths and the alphabet using climbing as a tool for learning and to keep them occupied during lockdown.

UKclimbing.com - вт, 31/03/2020 - 11:00

VIDEO: Lockdown - Free Films from the Hills to Keep You Sane

One week into lockdown and the UKC/UKH staff are starting to climb the walls. We're taking solace in the fact that the hills will be there when we emerge. Meanwhile there's an abundance of online films to help us plan our next adventure. If you can't get lost in the hills, get lost in this selection of films: 

UKclimbing.com - пн, 30/03/2020 - 17:00

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