French couple Florence Pinet and Gérome Pouvreau swapped the French heatwave for a British one as they toured the UK in their van this summer. In just a few weeks, the pair ticked off a long list of hard trad classics - a list which any Brit would be rather proud of. Gérome made the 6th ascent of Rhapsody E11 7a and ticked Muy Caliente E9 6c and The Big Issue E9 6c as well as three E8s and a cluster of E7s. Florence also climbed The Big Issue E9 6c, The Quarryman E8 7a, Point Blank E8 6c, Chupacabra E8/9 6c and Requiem E8 6c.
David Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined WCH in 2016, has done the first repeat of Gerome Pouvreau's Le Cadafist 9a in Saint Léger. "Yeah!!! 2nd ascent after Gerome. Very good job for the FA mate! Such a nice line! Bouldery sections at the start and at the top on crimps, mini pinches and pockets. Pumpy when you link it. Was heartbreaking to slip with my foot once at the very top after I climbed the hardest moves but today I came back, excited and with strong will and did it with style. Proud ascent! "
Jain Kim won the last World Cup in Kranj and with 28 victories, she has won most the in IFSC history. Overall, the 153 cm tall worst result since 2009 is #3. (c) Eddie Fowke 28 Jain Kim 25 Angela Eiter 22 Mina Markovic 22 Anna Stöhr 21 Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Kilian Fischhuber, Akiyo Noguchi, Alex Chabot 20 Jakob Schubert, Muriel Sarkany 18 Janja Garnbret 17 Sandrine Levet, Francois Legrand 14 Robin Erbesfield, Adam Ondra It should be mentioned that the first Lead World Cup was held in 1989 and the first Boulder W in 1999. Note that in the early years there were normally less events per year meaning that probably that climbers like Chabot, Levet, Legrand, Sarkany and Erbesfield would probably been higher up in the list based on equal competition conditions.
Lukasz Dudek has done another two 9a's, Der Lange Atem in Höllental and Sid Lives in Arco. "Short bouldery route. Looks ugly but it's a good piece of rock with some bad pinches and tiny crimps, 2 days." In total the Pole has now done 18 routes graded 9a, 31 8c+ and 61 8c's, so the base is ready for a 9a+ cherry on the cake.
Laurent Vigouroux is clearly in the best shape of his life having done one more 8c+, Dur sexe in Supermarché and now he goes for his first 9a. In the 40+ ranking game, he is #3. "Without doubts, I benefit actually of a really good shape and I also benefit of a series of success. For this one, I was under pressure since I knew that the weather forecast would not permit one more session in this route before the next summer. So, very happy to succeed in such mental pressure conditions, which is not my best quality. Mathieu Bouyoud also did it one hour before me. Mathieu helped me a lot with some new methods. Next step for me in this spot is to combine this 8c+ with the hard end of "Le moutchiky, 8c" for a probable 9a. So I'm still on the way for my dream ;-)"
Edu Marin is back home in Spain after driving back from Flatanger for almost four days, where he among others did Valhalla 9a/+. They stopped in Rodellar where Edu did Nilbru 9a in four sessions. (c) Esteban Lahoz Edu Marin is one of the best multi discipline climbers in the world, from winning the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in 2006 to do world class big wall ascents.
Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle's La cène du roi lézard 9a+ in Jansegg. Watching Cedric go more to the left, during his first sessions out of ten, avoiding the original elimination dyno, Pirmin thought Cedric solution was more logical and had already down graded it to 9a+ which Cedric confirms. Cedric, who previously have done 22 routes 9a and 9a+, has never worked so long for a 9 graded route. He also tried Pirmin's La barrière 9b, which is the same route but instead of the 8b start it begins with a 9a variation, but he could not do all moves. (c) Adeline Helg
In the end Keita Dohi was rather superior, performing at the highest standard in all three disciplines. 1. Keita Dohi 2 - 1 - 3 = 6 2. Shuta Tanaka 6 - 3 - 1 = 18 3. Sam Avezou 1 - 5 - 6 = 30 4. Filip Schenk 4 - 2 - 4 = 32 5. Yufei Pan 3 - 6 - 2 = 32 6. Peter Ivanov 5 - 4 - 5 = 100 Complete results
Rocco Micheletto, who works full time belaying kids in an adventure park, has done his first 9a, Thunder Ribes in Arco. (c) Marco Ceramella "Climbing a 9a has been a dream for a while, I got close to sending one in my home crag (Covolo) a couple of years back, then I broke my meniscus and ACL on the key heel hook of this route and therefore I could not send it or continue to try it. Since the beginning of 2018 I started climbing in Arco with my friends even though it is almost 2 hours away from where I live. In the spring I climbed a couple of routes and immediately started working Thunder Ribes. In May I fell on the final slab of the route. I started a training circles for the summer to get ready and luckily I got the send it.
In the very first Speed race, the favorite Sam Avezou made a big slip and finished second at around 8.23. Later Shuta Tanaka fell and Peter Ivanov also made a slip so Sam was the fastest "lucky looser". In the semi Sam once again faced Pan Yufei and beat him with some split seconds. Later Pan beat Filip Schenk in the small final. In the final, Sam had a clean race and made a personal best with 6.96 seconds against Keita Dohi 7.00. Complete results It should be noted that only Tomoa Narasaki and Mickel Mamew, among the non-Speed specialists, have had a faster time at 6.70 respectively 6.77.
Hannah Meul started first out, as she had the worst results in qualification, and set the standard by topping out with ease. She took two long rest further down but as she understood the route was way to she speeded up but nevertheless chalked up before getting to another jug at the top. All the five remaining did probably know Hannah had topped but even so, nobody could beat her time. The last one out was the overall leader Laura Lammer who only needed to be fourth to win overall. Nevertheless, the young Austrian climbed faster than the rest taking almost no rest and fell on the second last hold. 1. Sandra Lettner 3 - 3 - 2 = 18 2. Vita Lukan 6 - 1 - 3 = 18 3. Laura Lammer 1 - 4 - 5 = 20 4. Hannah Meul 4 - 5 - 1 = 20 5. Elena Krasovskaia 2 - 6 - 4 = 48 6. Mao Nakamura 5 - 2 - 6 = 60 Complete results Interestingly, if Lammer had topped and finished #2 in Lead, she would have won (at 8 points), Meul would have been second (20), Vita Lukan third (24) and Lettner fourth (27).
It did get exciting in the end as only one attempt separated the three who topped all four boulders. Vita Lukan needed 12 attempts, Mau Nakamura 13 and Sandra Lettner 14. On the other hand, this also means that the boulders were a bit to easy. Complete results Laura Lammer, #6 in the qually, leads but if the Lead results remain from the first round, she will be third after Sandra Lettner and Vita Lukan.
The clock did not work during the first race during the Speed final and it took over 20 min until they re-run the first race. Then everything went smooth until the final race when favorite, Elena Krasovskaia, slipped and Laura Lammer won. Third was Sandra Lettner followed by Hannah Meul, Mao Nakamura and Vita Lukan. In the qualification, Lammer was #6 but as she won and defends her results from the qualification in Lead and Boulder, she has good chances for a medal actually. Favorite for the gold is Sara Lettner, also from Austria, who was rather superior in the qually.